Chef Angus An celebrates 10 years of Longtail Kitchen

Chef Angus An reflects on his culinary career with frankness and clarity. 

“My first restaurant, Gastropod, was my hurdle,” An says of the fusion eatery, which opened in Kitsilano in 2006 and closed in 2009. “There is a balancing act every young eager chef must face, finding the sweet spot between being a businessman and a chef.

“Putting your ego aside and doing what is right for the business can be challenging.”

“You have to cook the food that people want to eat, not just what you want to create,” An says. 

An launched the restaurant with an ambitious goal, one that, in hindsight, he says may have been a tad bit “unrealistic.” 

“I wanted to change the way Vancouverites looked at food and restaurants,” An says. “I think I failed at Gastropod, but perhaps one can argue we have succeeded with Maenam. Especially in terms of the way people look at Thai food and flavours.

“With Maenam, we brought a lot to Vancouver. And the success of Longtail Kitchen, Fat Mao, and Sen Pad Thai is a seed Maenam planted 14 years ago.”

Attributing its ability to prosper in the notoriously challenging restaurant industry to its overall “approachability” as well as “quality and flavour,” An is proud to point out that the eatery has evolved alongside the city its located in. 

“Longtail grew along with the city of New West,” he says. “We were one of the earlier restaurants there before the condo boom. I feel we continue to be a genuine neighbourhood restaurant and offer consistent South East Asian flavours.”

The many talented chefs and “natural leaders” who have helped to shape the eatery’s offerings have also contributed significantly to its success, An points out. 

“From Justin Cheung of Potluck Hawker Eatery’ to Bonnie Khummuang, soon to open Mekong Fine Thai Cuisine in Whistler’ to Alex Lim, Longtail’s current chef, who started with us at Maenam,” An says. “It is a great place to see these young chefs develop and come into their own. I look forward to seeing Alex grow with Longtail and offer some of his own interpretations of Southeast Asian dishes.”

That desire to promote the growth of young local chefs likely stems from An’s own overarching appreciation for the process of making, and serving, great food.

“Food still excites me,” An says of the career path that he chose because of his parents’ appreciation for ‘great home cooking’. “I love cooking at home and for family and friends; I get a lot of inspiration from it, instant feedback and gratification.”

Noting that’s he’s inspired by the “next generation of chefs,” An also offered an appreciative nod to the chefs who’ve been an important part of Vancouver’s culinary evolution. 

“I look at Chef Pino of Cioppino’s and his work ethic, what he’s able to accomplish this many years into his career, all while seeing the young up-and-coming talents around town,” An says. “I feel as motivated as ever to continue.”

With more than a decade helming restaurants and professional kitchens, An offered a small morsel of advice for those who may be hungry to follow in his culinary footsteps. 

“Work hard at cooking but try and find as much time to also learn about the business side of things,” An advises. “Cook to feed people before cooking to impress people.

“Honest cooking, and good flavours will always win out over pretence and trends.”